My Hawthorn Dress is finished! I did vary from the pattern’s back skirt panel by cutting it in one piece by placing the center back on the fold. Since I was not aiming for any sort of chevron pattern on the skirt, I chose not to have a center back seam. I also lined the entire dress with peach Ambiance/Bemberg rayon, so skipped the bias binding at the armhole.
I also sewed the skirt panels to the bodice parts before sewing up the side seams. This way I can easily take in or let out the sides since my weight seems to yo-yo these days.
Since I used a very fluid rayon to make the dress, you can see some puckering around my waist even though I underlined it with a stiff organdy. A crisper fabric would avoid this problem, but I love the feel and drape of rayon.
Caveat: There is one issue with the collar. In the instructions, it’s unclear what the seam allowance should be, so I did the usual 5/8″. But this made the collar too short and it didn’t line up with the dots on the bodice collar edge. Since I had already trimmed the seam allowances to 1/4″ as per the instructions, I had to remake the collar from extra fabric I had (thankfully I bought extra!). This time I sewed just a 1/4″ on the short edges and 5/8″ around the outside and then it lined up perfectly. Here’s the note I made right in the instruction booklet: