I chose a rayon with a lot of drape for Colette’s Hawthorn Dress Sew-Along. The fabric suggestions on the pattern envelope are for crisp, lightweight fabrics like lawn, cotton poplin, voile, linen, etc. So to get my fluid rayon to behave more like these stiffer fabrics I have to underline it with something to give it more body. I remembered I had some plain black cotton in my stash, but it turned out to be a heavier quilting-like fabric. Too hot for summer weather. My local fabric shop doesn’t carry any solid colored voiles so I’m using silk organdy (already in my stash) to underline the bodice pieces. This is a technique I learned in Susan Kahlje’s The Couture Dress class on Craftsy. I won’t underline the skirt because I want that part to be more drapey.

Hawthorne progress 1I’m treating the fabric and the organdy as one unit. This is making the darts more substantial and do their job better.

Hawthorne progress 2If only I had the foresight to hang my skirt panels as soon as I had them cut them out and stay-stitched, they would have lots more time to stretch out for hemming. So for now it’s back to the sewing machine for me.